When we were initially planning this trip, we knew we didn't want to spend all of our time on the move. We wanted to choose a few places to really settle down a little bit, give ourselves a chance to get to know them and imagine what it might be like to really live there. We knew we'd be 3 months in rural India at the beginning, so we arbitrarily decided to pick two other locations to stay for 3 weeks each. There was almost no question that Berlin would be one of them.
We first came to Berlin together 3 years ago for a brief visit on the tail end of a trip to Germany for our friend Lars' wedding. We fell in love with the place immediately. It was early summer and very warm and we (and everyone else, it seemed) were out riding bicycles and picnicing in the parks. The whole city felt young and vibrant and alive with art and architecture and people making things happen.
Berlin is the second biggest construction site in the world, after Shanghai, yet there is 13% unemployment. Locals like to say that Berlin is “poor, but sexy.” For a capitol city, it is certainly amazing how empty it can feel sometimes. You can be riding the U Bahn in the middle of a Monday morning and find the station nearly empty. But on a sunny day in the springtime, every park is full. Biking, grilling, drinking beer outside… these are things the Germans seem to place a lot of importance on. It’s also remarkable how cheap and spacious the accommodation is. Compared to London or Paris, this is a capitol city in Europe that actually seems affordable to live in. If you can find a job, that is.
As the steady creep of gentrification moves eastward in this city, giant communist housing blocks have been occupied by young artists and hipsters. I’m told it’s still common to find listening wires under the wallpaper when renovating old apartments in the East. We are staying in what is referred to as the “up and coming bohemian area,” but is really still the Turkish part of town.
Most of the Turks came to Germany originally as a part of the American Marshall plan, a labor force of young men to help rebuild this country. Naturally, their families followed soon after and many have been here for generations. Most are still not German citizens. It wasn’t until 1990 that the law was changed so that children born to foreigners were given the option of German citizenship (unlike EU citizens, they have to choose at the age of 23 between Turkish and German citizenship). There are over 4 million people of Turkish origin living in Germany. They are Germany’s largest minority. Nearly 40% are not citizens. Many have chosen not to call this place home.
Recently, for some reason, quite a few people have asked us if we're feeling homesick. We've talked about it, and neither of us is, particularly. We miss our friends and family, of course. And our cat. And sometimes there's a specific place (Limantour Beach, the Marshall Store, Sitka and Spruce, the old Vivace, Pony, Honk Fest) we wish we could be. But for the most part, I would say we're still happy being on the road. Of course, it's been nice to have an apartment, particularly a kitchen. There's nothing that makes us happier than shopping at a farmer's market, coming home with an armload of food and flowers, and spending the afternoon cooking. But it's hard to be homesick when you don't have a very particular home to imagine. This apartment in Berlin is just as much ours as anywhere right now.
We left Seattle at the end of August last year with all of our things in a UHaul full of boxes. Those boxes are still sitting in DiAnn's attic in California. We set out on this trip with the idea that we would make a new home wherever Kacy got a job. And that is still the plan. So while we will always love Seattle and our friends there, it is unlikely we will be returning there to live anytime soon. And while I will always consider Inverness my home, it is unlikely that Kacy's first job will land us in the Bay Area.
So how do you feel homesick for somewhere you may never have been? Well, we've decided to extend our trip as long as we can afford it. Kacy will be going back to India to teach another round of the UW study abroad program there for the summer quarter. I will be fulfilling a lifelong desire to go hiking in Norway. And we will both meet back again in Berlin in mid-August. We imagine we'll return to the US before the end of the fall. We have to get back in time to vote, after all.
We first came to Berlin together 3 years ago for a brief visit on the tail end of a trip to Germany for our friend Lars' wedding. We fell in love with the place immediately. It was early summer and very warm and we (and everyone else, it seemed) were out riding bicycles and picnicing in the parks. The whole city felt young and vibrant and alive with art and architecture and people making things happen.
Berlin is the second biggest construction site in the world, after Shanghai, yet there is 13% unemployment. Locals like to say that Berlin is “poor, but sexy.” For a capitol city, it is certainly amazing how empty it can feel sometimes. You can be riding the U Bahn in the middle of a Monday morning and find the station nearly empty. But on a sunny day in the springtime, every park is full. Biking, grilling, drinking beer outside… these are things the Germans seem to place a lot of importance on. It’s also remarkable how cheap and spacious the accommodation is. Compared to London or Paris, this is a capitol city in Europe that actually seems affordable to live in. If you can find a job, that is.
As the steady creep of gentrification moves eastward in this city, giant communist housing blocks have been occupied by young artists and hipsters. I’m told it’s still common to find listening wires under the wallpaper when renovating old apartments in the East. We are staying in what is referred to as the “up and coming bohemian area,” but is really still the Turkish part of town.
Most of the Turks came to Germany originally as a part of the American Marshall plan, a labor force of young men to help rebuild this country. Naturally, their families followed soon after and many have been here for generations. Most are still not German citizens. It wasn’t until 1990 that the law was changed so that children born to foreigners were given the option of German citizenship (unlike EU citizens, they have to choose at the age of 23 between Turkish and German citizenship). There are over 4 million people of Turkish origin living in Germany. They are Germany’s largest minority. Nearly 40% are not citizens. Many have chosen not to call this place home.
Recently, for some reason, quite a few people have asked us if we're feeling homesick. We've talked about it, and neither of us is, particularly. We miss our friends and family, of course. And our cat. And sometimes there's a specific place (Limantour Beach, the Marshall Store, Sitka and Spruce, the old Vivace, Pony, Honk Fest) we wish we could be. But for the most part, I would say we're still happy being on the road. Of course, it's been nice to have an apartment, particularly a kitchen. There's nothing that makes us happier than shopping at a farmer's market, coming home with an armload of food and flowers, and spending the afternoon cooking. But it's hard to be homesick when you don't have a very particular home to imagine. This apartment in Berlin is just as much ours as anywhere right now.
We left Seattle at the end of August last year with all of our things in a UHaul full of boxes. Those boxes are still sitting in DiAnn's attic in California. We set out on this trip with the idea that we would make a new home wherever Kacy got a job. And that is still the plan. So while we will always love Seattle and our friends there, it is unlikely we will be returning there to live anytime soon. And while I will always consider Inverness my home, it is unlikely that Kacy's first job will land us in the Bay Area.
Lars with his youngest daughter, Anna Lou
So how do you feel homesick for somewhere you may never have been? Well, we've decided to extend our trip as long as we can afford it. Kacy will be going back to India to teach another round of the UW study abroad program there for the summer quarter. I will be fulfilling a lifelong desire to go hiking in Norway. And we will both meet back again in Berlin in mid-August. We imagine we'll return to the US before the end of the fall. We have to get back in time to vote, after all.
Location:Berlin, Germany
Kacy and Sage,
ReplyDeleteIt looks like you two are having a blast on the road I actually just stumbled upon your blog today finally! Nobody told me the name of it so I decided to just hop on the Internet and search for you two. I have been wondering how you are and possibly..maybe.. Missin' ya a tiny bit. Only just. :D
I was actually in Seattle May 13-15 and I managed to find some memorable places by walking around like the Bauhaus haha. But It really made me miss you guys. So I am glad I found a way to check up and communicate with you guys somewhat . This being the first entry of your blog I've seen (I read them all backwards now) I have to say this one really in an I'd way hit 'home' for me and made me alittle on the melancholic side. I feel that homesickness for a place I've never been and not knowing even where that home may be. Medford is home only because it has always been that way but I still feel homesick. So with that being said I hope you guys find that place called Home. And I'll come visit ya!
I love you guys and I miss you,
-Jay